Tahitian fruit the latest craze in U.S. restaurants

• THE STORY: While we were busy gobbling multivitamins, drinking wheat grass smoothies and eating bran, a segment of the population has discovered the magnificent health benefits of the fruit called noni, a Tahitian delicacy containing immune system-boosting antioxidants.
• The rise of noni juice, teas and syrups has given rise to a new chain of Polynesian-style cafes, found in Japan, Brazil, Atlanta and now Dallas.
• The cool fish and sweet fruit were paired with cream cheese, within a particularly sticky rice exterior filled with sesame seeds and reportedly some noni leaf, the latter in no way detectable.
• A salad topped with a trio of petite crab cakes ($9.75) had its high points.
• The crisp greens with crunchy carrots and macadamia nuts came with a lovely, tart citrus dressing containing the mysterious noni leaf; the crab cakes held good flavor but were on the mushy side.
• A dessert of banana crepes ($5.50) was good, if a bit baffling.
• Paper-thin, eggy pancakes were advertised as having a frozen yogurt filling, but ours held a rich, thick cream cheese or mascarpone concoction.
• Sliced bananas mingled within, while the drizzled syrup on top tasted more like Hershey's than the alleged Tahitian Noni Premium Syrup detailed on the menu.
• THE MISSES: The vegetarian sandwich ($5.95) was a pretty presentation, but its effect was a certain disappointment.
• The promised toasted focaccia was a cool, dry bread, and the fillings of noni-leaf goat cheese, tomato and greens were just plain boring.
• A sun-dried tomato pesto and the side of mango chutney were nice, but these couldn't save the plate.
• A two-ounce shot of noni juice ($3.60) was bitter and musty, even when jazzed up with a berry blend.
• THE NEIGHBORHOOD: Next door, an expensive boutique sells health and beauty products incorporating the Tahitian noni fruit.