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Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 7th Edition

Paula Begoun and Bryan Barron
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Even the FDA says cosmeceuticals don't exist, and considers these products to be merely cosmetics with clever marketing language attached. Do cosmeceuticals really differ from any other cosmetics? The answer is a resounding no, because no matter how a product is labeled and marketed, as a cosmeceutical or otherwise, many skin-care treatments contain ingredients that affect the biological function of skin.
As more and more doctors get into selling or endorsing skin-care products, you will hear more and more about cosmeceuticals. Dr. Tina Alster is the spokesperson for Lancome; Dr. Karyn Grossman is the spokesperson for Prescriptives; Dr. Patricia Wexler has her namesake products, Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology; Skin Effects by Dr. Jeffrey Dover is at CVS; Dr. Sheldon Pinnell's SkinCeuticals line has been purchased by L'Oreal; and, of course, there's N.V Perricone, M.D. Upping the ante in this group is Dr. Howard Sobel, who has some of the most expensive skin-care products being sold today.
Moreover, while there hasn't been much research on topical application of minerals, we do know that whether they are applied topically or ingested, minerals depend on other factors (most notably coenzymes) to work, and even when that happens the benefits aren'r all that exciting (Sources: cosmeceuticals, Elsnet & Maiback, 2000, pages 29-30; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 1997, page 105). There is no substantiated research proving that minerals, whether concentrated or not, exfoliate skin or have any effect on pore size.

Interview with "Kevala" Karen Parker, master raw foods chef

Mike Adams, the Health Ranger
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There's a new frontier of "cosmeceuticals" and other forms of life-extending and vanity drugs and medicines that are gaining more and more popularity, but again, they're brand new in this 21st century, and you know what? They generally come mostly complete, mostly bioavailable, meaning that our bodies can receive the maximum amount of yield from that food ingested when they come in their most perfect form, which is in the raw, natural state. Sometimes you can free these by slightly processing them and taking – we'll say seeds – out of their hull, so your body doesn't have to do that work.

Bitter Pills: Inside the Hazardous World of Legal Drugs

Stephen Fried
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Most things sold as cosmetics are cosmeceuticals. Stop kidding yourself.' . . . "There's a lot of puffery. People need hope, and they think it's gonna help their skin. . . . [Cosmeceuticals] shouldn't be regulated as drugs. If Leonard Lauder can decide he has to have a new moisturizer that's an alphahydroxy acid—which is mainly bullshit—I don't want him to have to pay a million bucks [for FDA approval] to put it out. . . . The law should be rewritten." The law was never rewritten. Over the course of time and commerce, however, Kligman's idea mutated into something quite different.
When Kligman talked about "cosmeceuticals" back then, he was mostly talking about zit creams and wrinkle removers. It was unimaginable that twenty years later companies would be trying to figure out how to market nearly all prescription drugs as if they were face creams. By 1997 almost any drug that could be made into a pill or an ointment was effectively being marketed as a cosmeceutical. About the only old-fashioned "medical drugs" left were cancer chemotherapy agents and intravenous antibiotics and painkillers.

The Doctor's Vitamin and Mineral Encyclopedia

Sheldon Saul Hendler
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Retin A is, in any case, a genuine "breakthrough" drug, the first of what promise to be a long succession of "cosmeceuticals" that will be introduced in the near future. Other, perhaps far more effective, vitamin A derivatives are likely to be among them. 4) Improves vision—No one disputes the idea that vitamin A plays a crucial role in helping to maintain good vision. Real deficiencies in vitamin A will result in night blindness, still a prevalent problem in some third-world countries.

A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients

Ruth Winter, M.S.
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The 75 million baby boomers are the major market for cosmeceuticals. No matter what your age, however, before you spend a penny for a cosmetic "treatment product," you should know about your skin, the largest organ of your body. You will then be better able to judge what cosmetic companies are offering you. Your skin is made up primarily of three parts: 1. The outermost layer of your skin, your epidermis, is also called the horny layer. Flattened and insensitive, it is continually flaking off. The other layers of your epidermis are alive and receive nourishment from below.
Director of Molecular Pharmacology, Southern Research Institute, "Sulfotransferases As Molecular Targets for Cosmeceutical Agent Discovery," paper presented at International Business Communications: Drug Discovery and Development Approaches to cosmeceuticals, Short Hills, N.J., February 12-13, 1998.
Brooks, "An Ethnobotanical Approach to the Development of Effective Cosmetic Actives," paper presented at Drug Discovery and Development Approaches to cosmeceuticals, International Business Communications Second Annual International Industry Conference, Short Hills, N.J., February 12-13, 1998. "John Bailey, Ph.D, personal communication with author, July 1, 1998. Men have been slower to take to body washes than women have but now male bar soap, the largest segment within male personal care, is declining, and male shower gels are climbing.



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